“Lisbon is one of Europe’s great cities — hilly, faded, deeply beautiful.”

Most visitors spend their time in Alfama and Belém, and leave having seen the famous sights but missed the city’s real character. Here’s how to do it differently.

The light falls differently in Lisbon — golden hour here is unlike anywhere else in Europe. Photo: Unsplash

Day 1: Alfama & the old city

Start at the Castelo de São Jorge before the crowds arrive — the views across the rooftops are extraordinary in the early morning light. Walk down through Alfama’s narrow streets, stopping at a tasca for a pastel de nata and a bica. In the afternoon, take tram 28 to Estrela and walk back through Chiado.

Day 2: Belém & the waterfront

Take the train from Cais do Sodré to Belém and visit the Torre de Belém and the Jerónimos Monastery. The original Pasteis de Belém bakery is right next door — the queue moves quickly and the custard tarts are exceptional. Spend the afternoon walking along the riverside.

Alfama’s winding streets

The Tejo at golden hour

Day 3: LX Factory & Principle Real

Sunday mornings in Lisbon belong to LX Factory — a converted industrial space in Alcântara with food, markets and independent shops. Afterwards, walk up to Principe Real for its antique shops and one of the city’s best garden squares.